Trip Report (Long Version) with Pictures
Well……it was another adventure
Mojave Road December 2013
It was an early and cooler Friday morning 4:30 am when I pulled into the Ralphs Market parking lot. Mike LaFluer was already there. Within a few minutes several others from the group arrived, Murrie, Cody (the Toyota Cody) and Neil. 5 am the leaving time rolled around and we were off.
About 5:20 my cell started ringing with those who arrived at Ralphs after we left and we encouraged then to head out toward our first stop, Denny’s in Barstow.
At our breakfast stop all caught up and after fueling up both the body and the vehicle we were all traveling along Interstate 40 with a total of 8 vehicles.
Shortly before we can to River road I started hearing a sound that I would associate with something loose on my Cherokee rattling. Upon inspection it wasn’t something loose it was something in the engine, not a good sign. At least it was coming from the upper side of the engine. I decided that it’s wasn’t time to bail on the trip seeing that we haven’t even hit the trail yet, So hopefully I could keep the noise and internal damage down by going easy on the skinny peddle and driving it below 2000 rpm until two days later when we reach pavement again at Afton Canyon.
We all topped off our tanks and I was a bit surprised by how many brought extra fuel cans and filled them up too. We have never needed extra fuel doing the Mojave Trail before but as you’ll see later the extra fuel came in real handy.
We had some “newbies” in the group and it had been a while since we had had any of these “green” travelers. I had forgot how challenging and downright scary, what would seem like an easy trail, can be to those just starting out. Our progress was rather slow at times, so slow I decided to skip the extra drive to Fort Piute so as to hopefully arrive at our campsite in Caruthers Canyon before nightfall.
There was some talk of possible rain/snow that evening and I definitely didn’t want to put our tent users in a position of setting up camp in the dark while it was snowing. (A sure way of curing any first-timer of ever wanting to come again!)
Lunch at Piute Pass, re-group at Ivanpaugh Road and make it into camp around 4pm. While the sky was fairly clear the temps started dropping. A fire was made and soon all the warm clothing was on as we circled this only source of warmth.
It wasn’t long after the sun went down we saw temps in the 20’s. All were good natured and we enjoyed good conversation around the fire before the group started slowly heading for their sleeping bags. I think the last person left the fire shortly after 9pm.
It’s always tough in the morning leaving the relative warmth of the bag to be “greeted” by the sub-freezing air. Neil got a fire going and we soon had some hot water to make a cup of Coffee.
During the night around midnight we had two more vehicles join our team, Matt Dillon and another Cody with a last name of Dunn. They brought as passengers Matt’s sister, Natalie and then Ryan Javier.
Breaking camp happened without a hitch until just before we left I open my hood to take another look at my engine to listen to the knocking sound. I think it was Ryan that pointed out that the fuel inlet hose to the injection rail was leaking (not a good thing) this meant that while the engine was on drops of gas was dripping on my exhaust header. A perfect set up for an engine fire. We finally cut of the Chrysler “quick connect: and used an old fuel filter I had to join the two fuel lines together.
I had been hoping that somehow over night the knocking sound would fix itself but no such luck! Looks like I’ll be driving the remainder of the trip keeping then engine under 2000 rpm.
With everyone there we decided to divide the group into two groups of 5 vehicles. I took my group ahead and decided to take the New York Mountain road across to where it meets the Cedar Canyon graded road which for our purposed is the Mojave Road. I told the other group to travel south out of Caruthers Canyon until the came to the Cedar Canyon road, then a right and we would meet them at Marl Springs about an hour’s drive.
Off our team of 5 vehicles went in a short period of time we were on Cedar Canyon and were easily driving 45 mph making great time on the most improved section of the Mojave Road. We tried to maintain radio contact but once over the hill and down near the Kelso-Cima road we were out of range.
With no radio contact I decided to wait for the other group at the Kelso-Cima road to make sure we didn’t lose them. After about an hour waiting I sent Murrie back to find them and eventually we all were back together again.
The next section of the Mojave road is known for its wood-de-dos and lots of them, it’s next to impossible to maintain much over 5mph for several miles. Our clouds we starting seeing as we left this morning were now blessing us with some snow. It’s always a wonderful experience driving through the desert when it snowing. As we cresting the hill and came upon the “mailbox” there was just enough snow to cover the ground.
As quickly as the snow came it also disappeared without a trace that it ever came. Next on our agenda was Watson Wash just before 17 mile point, Always fun for the group to drive through some deeper sand. The moisture from the clouds made the sand a bit firmer and easier to drive.
At 17 mile point, Murrie’s brother, Michael and his friends decided they had had enough cold and the split off from the group on pavement toward Baker and then home for them. The rest of us headed toward Soda Dry Lake.
I always enter Soda Dry Lake with a bit of apprehension after spending 23 hours stuck on it years ago. Once on the lake radioed the group to hold up as I investigated further to see just how wet the not so dry lake was. About ¼ the way across the path was already getting loose and slippery so I made the call to not cross the lake and go around. I think the temptation to have some fun in the mud was too much for some and soon we had one of the group stuck needing to be pulled out.
The usual route around the lake is north to Baker, then Interstate 15 to Razor Road ten south to the other side of the lake where you met up with the Mojave Road. Been there and done that so many times. I was up for a new adventure since I had taken a group up Jack Ass Canyon a year ago out of Ludlow, I figures there was also a southern route around the lake…….or so I at least thought. SO off we went with the group following into dirt road I have never traveled before (of course I didn’t let the group know this) As we backtracked away from the lake our first route dead ended and in my trying to find a connecting road a turned to sharp on some sharp rocks and cut a hole in one of my front sidewalls. It was about a 20 minute delay putting on the spare and then another 30 minutes or so backtracking to the Mojave road to where we started. We then headed due south to the Jack Ass Canyon trail and then following it now due south. This trail is rarely driven and become quite rocky with lots of small washouts which only allow you to travel on an average 5-7 mph. The light was starting to wane and I started look for someplace to make camp. It was all rocks and even if we all decided to sleep in our cars there was very little level ground.
After what seemed like a very long time we finally intersected with the Jack Ass Canyon trail which followed the high power lines, still no place to camp. Our direction turned more westerly and the road improved. I remembered that this trail went through some rather large sand dunes and figured we could find some lever camp spots near them.
A few miles more and with only a very little light left in the sky we came to the dunes. Whole driving I hadn’t noticed that the wind had picked up. When I surveyed the possible camp site next to the dunes the wind was enough that unless we wanted to sand blast our vehicles this was no place to camp.
I discussed our situation with the group recommending that we continue to drive in the dark. It was still early, 5:30 pm and we could drive for several hours before we would have to quit due to exhaustion.
As those who have ever done it can testify, night driving in the desert on an unknown trail can get you mixed up and turned around in a hurry. Not having familiar landmarks on the horizon can quickly confused you enough that you have no idea where you are.
I knew we had to get through or around those dunes one way or another. I remembered a small side road that went off in the general direction that I was willing to take. After a few hundred yards it ended at the same dunes with what looked like a possible trail but it was difficult to tell as the wind had blown over it enough that it was just a clear area where there weren’t any plants growing. I radioed the group to stay put and I would try and see if I could make out any path through the dunes. Now remember I was nursing a wounded 4.0 engine that I was trying to keep under 2000 rpm’s. I decided to lock both axles as I climbed just in case the sand got real deep. I also put on the HID fog lights and the Warm Halogens.
I made it up ok and after a little wandering around on top I thought I saw what looked like a possible route following up the ridge of the dune toward the right. Following the ridge I eventually found the trail we were trying to get to, so I turned the Cherokee around pointing my headlights on the ridge I had just followed and asked over the radio for the group to climb the dune where I went up and then turn right and drive toward my headlight across the top of the dune.
We the group on the other side of the dune now we could continue north westerly toward what I hoped was the railroad line and then Afton Canyon. In the darkness we continued until suddenly my engine stalled. I knew I was low on fuel but my low fuel light hadn’t come on yet. As the group waited I took my 5 gallon can of gas and emptied it into my Cherokee, turned the key on, cranked the starter and ………. nothing, not even a single pop from the engine. A quick examination of the engine and we found that the stall was fuel related but not due to no gas in the tank, the problem was no gas was making it to the engine.
This situation decided our camp location, right there where Explorer 1 stopped. There was a slight wind blowing across the trail we were traveling along. We formed up the other vehicles so as to block the wind and gathered some rocks to form a ring. In short order we were enjoying a fire.
No one was interested in setting up their tents in the dark so all decided to sleep in their cars. That meant that as many as three guys in one Jeep and others sleeping in their seats with the slight reclined.
Once the fire was roaring and what little camp that was set up was done we enjoyed the remainder of the evening. One by one we left the fire for another “different” nights rest.
Neil was up early re-starting the previous night’s fire, soon water was boiling and coffee was enjoyed by many. Morning also brought the ability for me to figure out where we were by the surrounding landmark hidden the night before. I could tell we close to the trail that comes up from Ludlow through Broadwell dry lake. This would be my preferred exit route not only because it was an easy trail to make it out to pavement while being towed, but it was also the closest gas station for those of us running on or near empty.
Some of us tried again to figure out why the Cherokee wasn’t getting fuel; we even made a coupling for two of the fuel lines out of a bullet shell by cutting off the enclosed end. Others took a walk and did some shooting. It was wide open desert and there wasn’t another person or vehicle within sight or sound.
We enjoyed our breakfast, broke what little camp we made and I went through the humiliation of being pulled out by Cody in his Toyota Tacoma.
In Ludlow, I left the Cherokee and Mike LaFleur gave me a ride home in his Newer 2 dr Wrangler.
Once home I loaded up the Sportsmobile and Cody came along as we drove back out to Ludlow and dragged the wounded Cherokee back home.
My hat’s off to all the beginners who braved the cold weather, rocky ground, dusty trails, and travel in the night. They all had good attitudes and were available to help when needed. I look forward to going out again with them when the trip has a few less challenges.
Thanks,
Fred
